The Bold Soul: A Writer's Life in Paris

Has it really been 7 years?

Why yes, I guess it has! Seven happy years ago today, Georges and I were on this very beach in Saint Raphael -- right about where those children are digging a hole and making a castle in this photo that I just took -- when he surprised me by dropping a melon, then dropping down on one knee and asking me a Very Important Question. There was never any doubt what the answer would be. And every day, I'm still so glad he asked me. This will always be our "Melon Beach". Happy 7th Engaged-iversary, mon coeur. Read more →

Taking a Bowl of Air

Je prends un bol d'air. I'm getting a change of air tomorrow: literally. Georges and I, and le Garçon, are leaving town for two weeks at my sister-in-law's place in Saint-Raphaël. It's the spring school holidays, perfect timing to shake off the remaining dregs of the grey (polluted) Paris air. All I want to look at for the next two weeks are palm trees, azure-blue seas, sandy beaches and a pastis bottle. And the love in my husband's eyes. He needs this vacation as much as I do. (Sketch by my SIL of Georges reading on one of our favorite beaches.) Read more →

This time, it's for Notre Dame

On Sunday, April 12th, I'll be making a (probably very brief) appearance on a French TV documentary about Notre Dame. It will be airing tomorrow evening at 6:30pm/18:30 local Paris time, on channel M6 for their regular program 66 Minutes: Grand Journal. If you're in France, please tune in and watch! I was invited to participate because the producers heard about the No Love Locks campaign, and they were also planning to interview one of the leaders of another historic preservation group whose members live in the Notre Dame neighborhood -- they've been trying to get the city to clear locks from the Pont Neuf and other bridges in their quartier for several years, and we decided to partner with them last year. The producers decided to have us both on camera together on the Pont de l'Archevêché, discussing how horrible this locks have become, and how it really degrades the neighborhood and view of the stunning cathedral. While most of the focus and press about love locks in Paris centers around the Pont des Arts, the Pont de l'Archevêché is just as grotesquely disfigured, and because it is located directly behind Notre Dame, the visual pollution has a huge... Read more →

Confetti Spring

The weather has turned sunny, the sunshine is warm and lovely, and the days are getting longer. Parisians are coming out of their grey winter hibernation... And apparently some of them are celebrating while they bask in all that Vitamin D-light! Read more →

How To Apartment-Shop In Paris, Part 3 - The Space (or lack thereof)

One of the biggest challenges in finding the perfect Parisian apartment will be the tug-of-war between your desire for as much space as possible (both living and closet), choosing the ideal neighborhood for you, and your budget. Unless money is no object (and if that's the case, lucky you!), you will have to make some kind of compromise because otherwise you'll never hit the Holy Real-estate Trifecta of "big, cheap and in the heart of Paris". Here's how it usually works: More affordable apartment = less space and/or less desirable neighborhood More space = bigger budget and/or less desirable neighborhood More desirable neighborhood = bigger budget and/or less space You can't have it all if your financial means are limited in any way (and let's face it, most of us would fit in that group). There will always be something that is less than ideal. The question is: is it something you are willing to live with, perhaps for many years? I say "perhaps for many years" because of course, if you are only seeking an apartment for a year or less, your toleration level will probably be higher for living with a microscopic kitchen with ugly cabinets, or living... Read more →

How to Apartment-shop in Paris, Part 2 - The All-Important Kitchen

You want to talk about culture shock when you move to Paris? Take an American who is used to giant kitchens with big islands and granite countertops... and show her a Parisian kitchen where only the sink is provided, and in a space smaller than an American walk-in closet. Read more →

How to Apartment-shop in Paris, Part 1 - Understanding the Listings

Once again, we are back out there looking for an apartment. Care to come along for the ride? Read more →

Paul!

My inner 1960's-era teenage girl is so screaming her freaking head off right now. Read more →

Mouthing off

Naturally, as a major-league chatterbox, the one side effect I WOULD get would be the sore mouth one. Karmic retribution for never being able to say or write anything brief. This post included. Read more →

La Sorbonne

A little walk through part of the oldest university in France. Read more →